On|Off is an independent fashion showcase during London Fashion Week. Bridging the gap between on and off schedule designers and is praised by international press and buyers for creating a unique platform to showcase designer’s collections
A real stand out collection was that of Simon Ekrelius AW10
RAMON GURILLO
Ramon Gurillos sophisticated knits took on a refreshing twist towards grung this season with his 'Where the birds Always Sing' collection. Finding a darker inspiration in The Cure's 'bloodflowwers' song and interpreting the lyrics 'the world never stops, the wonder never leaves'SHANE + FALUGI PEACOCK
The Peacock Couture show is always a fabulous, star studded affair. Fresh from dressing the likes of Madonna, Frieda Pinto, Michelle Williams, Joss Stone and Naomi Harris to name a few. This season the Peacock duo didn't disappoint! With their full on glamorous style, we just loved the vibrant optimistic beat of the Peacock label. This was a feminine collection of bold metropolis digital prints on silks which twisted along the body from hem to bodice and were adorned with sparkles of crystal jewels, intricate fringing and chains. Contrasted with bondage leather straps and sheer panels. Bravo the Peacocks!PROSE
Prose's 'BLURRED VISION' collection was a real sight for sore eyes with it's philosophical and ultra modern point of view. The blurry digital prints were strikingly eye catching and the 'newness' of their puzzle padded accessories and voluminous cut dressess would flatter any figure young and old a like. We can't wait to see how they develop next season!
JAYNE PIERSON
Jayne Pierson paid homage to self
empowerment and all things feminine this season with a deliciously
dark, whimsical collection comprising of thoughtful floral prints and
stunning silhouettes. Voluminous barrel sleeves, Sharpe hips and
pin tuck detailing ran throughout the collection which had a barren, ghostly feel: not quite past
and not yet future. Shades of rose and inky blues from very pale through to midnight black.
RICHARD SORGER
Roger Sorger presented a 'swarm' of nine dresses drawing on inspiration from his love of nature and sketching. Lady like woollen dresses were hand-embellished with individual 'Wasp' motifs and artisan embellishments inspired by creatures and insects that swarm...bees, wasps, jellyfish all added an indulgently creepy edge to this wardrobe fit for a queen! Sorger has dressed many stars from Courtney Love to Heidi Klum.
BROOKE ROBERTS
Brooke
Roberts cleverly showcased a collection of intricately woven
'intelligent' knitwear with a contemporary sifi feel. Effortlessly
complex programmed designs inspired by the beautiful science of echo
cardiograms in a mix of the finest cashmere, wool and technical yarns in a palette of dark greys with accent of white and finished with metallic detail and lacing.
This
was a modern collection of unusually hard edged technological knitwear.
Very London and super cool... With Brooke's most iconic look being a
power wearing quilted knit dress padded out in all the right areas with
a balenciaga esque style shoulder.
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On|Off’s Presents featured four fabulous designers..
Samantha Cole, Txell Miras, Mr+ Mr and Derek Lawlor
Head buyers from Burberry, Asos and Feathers were all spotted on the front row.
To watch the show videos please click on the following link...
WATCH SHOW VIDEOS HERE
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Mr +Mr
Storming down the catwalk were the super sexy beefed up models of the Mr + Mr label. Adron as tough, James Bond style nemeses the look was Über confident and oozing testosterone. A super cool and youthful take on gentlemen’s classics.
SAMANTHA COLE
Cole went all angelic on us with her palette of
crisp white dresses in a stark contrast to her all black, villainous collection
of last season. Coles mood was one of gentle optimism as voluminous, bubble
like shapes floated along the catwalk to sounds of Bjork - all is full of love.
TXELL MIRAS
Aptly
following the Samantha Cole collection was the powerful, layered silhouette of
Txell Miras. In a collection solely consisting of black, Miras menacing models
walked the runway in snug head wear and long leather boots.
A
great start for Miras!
DEREK LAWLOR
Derek
Lawlor is pushing the boundaries of knitwear to the next level and quickly building
a name for himself along the way having already had a mentions in Vogue, Dazed
and the Daily Telegraph.
Lawler
creates contemporary designer knitwear which goes beyond traditional fabrics to
uniquely form the structure to his garments, with body armour, sculptured an architectural references.
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TREND NOTES
·
Nineties
minimalism : Grown up, nostalgic sophistication, tailored, pared down looks
·
lightness
of palette, nudes, mustards, soft stone, mulberry colours (Chloe / Celine) Lack
of black!!!
·
Shines,
butter soft leathers in sand tones, gentle molton metallic eveningwear
·
Nineties
Grunge (Courtney Love/ Meadham Kirchoff/ Soft texture (Rodarte) Girl Grunge
style at TopShop Unique, grubby gold metallic
·
Pretty
trend: Softness, wallpaper floral, ease, relaxed, Shears, Fru ruffled dresses
(Paris)
·
Subtle
tribal references with raffia and grass skirt inspired layering and fringing
(Gianbattista Valli).
·
Velvet
Evening gowns, long dresses in chilly pepper reds and dusty blues
·
Lots
of lace and textures, Embroidery, tapestry, florals over lace (Christopher
Kane)
·
Digital
Prints McQueen etc
·
NEW
Trouser shapes, loose and long with narrow legs
·
Utility
military mixed with pretty: Big aviator Jackets, military coats, flying suits,
biker jackets, camel coats, sheepskin gilets (TOPSHOP UNIQUE) Chloe
·
Blankets
worn as cape like jackets and dresses at Paul Smith and Marc Jacobs
·
KNITWEAR:
Pringle classic knits in new directions and Mark Fasts body con crochet dresses
in soft tones and cobweb knits
·
70’s
influences
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MAKE-UPMake up seams to be very pared down and
simple, dusty eye shadows with no mascara!
Contrasted with dark lips in midnight tones of deep blue or
metallic bronzed shades
Also chiselled facial shading reminiscent of
the nineties
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YANG DU
Surrealist designer Yang Du has started to take the fashion world by storm since debuting their collection which blurs the line between fashion and art. Dressing the likes of Lady Gaga, Yang Du is an experimental designer with a youthfull and an unapologetic out look inspired by her love of life.
FORGOTTON FUTURE
Poetic designer Richard Dawson
talked through his 'no wave' inspired men’s collection, jolting our
memory with his collage of colours consisting of magenta, cool mint,
stone, mustard and hints of turquoise. The range comprised of block
colours, subtly textured cube-like patchwork tops and ultra
utilitarian tailored jackets with adjustable zips panels and casual
t-shirts in graphic prints.
Designer Michela Carraro has exhibited a selection of styles at On/off and has recently taken up studio in Vienna, presenting at the museums dedicated to exhibiting young designers.BRYCE
Bryce juxtaposed extreme futuristic fashion
with ancient Egyptian influence in a unique, hard edged interpertation against the ancient heritage, Inspired pieces resembling building
blocks from the pyramids to erry back to life mummification of the models as their hair was wrapped up in turbans. Digital prints resembling bandages appeared on the catwalk in red and ash grey.
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Tribute to ‘Alexander the Great’
McQueen funeral marks a poignant end to fashion week as the London shows come to a close
Today London bid it’s a final farewell as mourners gathered
to say their last goodbyes to the iconic designer Lee Alexander McQueen.
Following a sombre fashion week Britain’s iconic
rags-to-riches designer was laid to rest at a ceremony in St. Pauls cathedral. With friends, family and fans paying tribute
to the designer over fashion week.
The British Fashion Council mounted a tribute wall to the
late designer where visitors were be able to leave notes to McQueen and his
family. The wall, simply entitled "Lee Alexander McQueen." was set up
in the main tent at the Somerset House.
McQueen inspired an army of design students with
his deeply visionarie, unconventional designs and shockingly autobiographical
shows and met with critical acclaim earning the British Designer of the Year
award four times.
McQueen cared allot about woman stating “I don't like her
to look so naive...like a man has to have real balls to go up to her." But
he also remarks, "I don't feel like I'm enjoying myself so much because I
just work so much these days and I sit back and wonder what I'm doing it all
for." He says that people seen him as a mad eccentric, but he really liked the
simple things in life.
R.I.P McQueen you will be greatly missed.
Lee Alexander McQueen : 17 March 1969 – 11 February 2010
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